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Post Info TOPIC: Weatherstrip for T-Top


Newbie

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RE: Weatherstrip for T-Top


Hello billhill,

please send me your detailed info, my e mail volko@volko.de.

blankstare

greets from germany

 



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RE: Weatherstrip for T-Top


Ahoy Demo,   Welcome to the forum!  I solved the the T top latch problem by using a bungee cord type of system and thus far it has worked very well. I purchased the needed materials at Home Depot for a small amount of $. If you go to page four on this forum and scroll down to the very bottom posting which reads "Scimitar engine compartment" and click on it, you will see a series of pictures . Two of the pics show close- ups of this application. The photos are a little out of focus, but I think you'll get the idea. Yes, it has been lake tested and the T tops have not budged an inch! Moreover, it is a secure feeling to know that when I am trailing the boat on the freeway, that the T tops are very secure. If you are interested in more detailed info on how I did this I would be happy to chat over the phone with you. Ole Red has my phone number if you need it. Best regards,   Pelican Bill



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Can Do!

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RE: Weatherstrip for T-Top


Welcome to the site

I've had a long challenge getting those hinges re-produced with no results, but I have learned recently that there is a local fellow that has one of the 3-d printer set-up that may can do it, as soon as I find out more I will post it here

Take Care

Red



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RE: Weatherstrip for T-Top


Hello im Looking for 2 hinges , i have 2 original new t-tops , can you help me ?



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Can Do!

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RE: Weatherstrip for T-Top


The original holes in the tops were 11/32 that give's you just a little adjustment span.  The screwa I used, I got at a hardware store, they are stainless steel and almost a half inch flat head for a phillips driver,  I didn't use any gasket, but I did put a small amount of arcrilic latex caulk between the hinge and the panel.  I used that kind of caulk because it's easy to clean up any access that squeezed out, it cleans right up with a wet rag and once it dries it holds the screww in and the top in place.  Only one of the tops on my boat was original, thats where we got the measurement and positions for the screw holes, and there were no washers under the screw heads.  I pit about a 3/4 stainless washer under the heads of the screws just brcause it made me feel better about it, and I paid attention to put the smooth side of the washer towards the screw head, I've not had one come loose this far.  The thing about drilling the holes with a bit made for wood or steel, it grabs just as it passes through the panel and will break a little chip, or crack, right then, regardless of how careful you are, and on the thinner winglets, it breaks off a piece of the panel so you can have a souvineer for your efforts, at least thats what happened to me Twice, before I took them back to Frankie and he drilled them for me and explained the difference in the bits.

I'd like to talk to Tommy about the hinges, if there are others available they should be included on our site,  there are others there that are looking for them. it looks like a pretty good casting to me, and you're right, they need to match up good but they can't have a tight tolerance, loose may even be better.  When I close the tops on my boat,  I always be sure to bepulling the top toward the outside of my boat as it closes, reason ?  if the shoulders of the hinge meets, where the little bevels are, when that part meets, and does not slide right down in place, all the weight of the top is held up right there where the hinge stopped, and you will break the top if you were to pull it on down in place, or, the hinge will bend the little narrow arm the slides into the other half of the set.  Two of the hinges on my boat were bent because of that, and one of the tops were cracked all the way to the outter edge also, so be sure and pay attention to that or you will be buying another top. 

I didn't use the little horsehead latches on mine, I used velcro, I secured one side to the top with 4 minute epoxy adhesive, left about 1 1/2 inch to pull over the piece I epoxy'd to the to the boat,  they are almost un-noticeable and when the top wiggles around from hitting waves the velcro won't turn loose.  The little latches that came on the boats, like the one you pictured, will jiggle loose.  You can adjust them for security all right, but the tops of these boats wiggle around a Lot, thats why you see stress cracks in almost all of them, they wiggle on the trailer, and the wiggle a Lot bouncing through the waves,  all that wiggling moves those little rubber tips on the latches around and they can come un-latched.  Only one of them were on mine, that section of the top was broken off the other end.  The aluminum strip that edge's the top must be used for sure if you plan on using those latches,  I liked mine better with-out the alumunum strip so I din't use them or the latches.



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RE: Weatherstrip for T-Top


Hey Red  Not only are they not drilled, I don't have any screws, either. The hinges are tapped with standard 1/4-20 threads. I'm guessing I'll need something with a big flat head, and some rubber washers?

I've had pretty good success with drilling plastic with a drill press with a couple of scraps of plastic clamped on each side... How big a hole are you supposing I'll need? I can see your point about being able to adjust 'em a little.

The tops and wings I got from Tommy are real nice. Perfect, actually.The hinge halfs are pretty good too, but they need a little bit of work to get them to drop all the way down so that the tops fit with full contact. I'm thinking maybe a clear vinyl gasket there wouldn't be a bad idea either.

I don't know where Tommy got the hinges. Or any of the parts for that matter...
Thanks,
Demo

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Can Do!

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RE: Weatherstrip for T-Top


Hey Demo,  about the holes in the tops,  they make a bit specifically designed to drill the arcrilic panels, it don't "grab" when it runs through, but you still have to drill a pilot hole for the bigger one that the tops require,  they need to be big enough for the screws to slide around a little to align the tops to the opening.  The tops I sell already have the holes drilled.  I didn't know Tommy sold them.

What hinges are you using, the only one's I know of are the one's from Tibus n Germany, but he only sells them in sets and they are WAY too expensive for my wallet, and they didn't have but three sets and the boat requires 4 sets.  I've been planning to make some of the hinges here, but I just haven't had the time to get it done yet.

I made all the molds for the tops and winglets to make for my boat and George's, I gave them to Fraknie at Eaton Quade plastics here in Okc and he has sold several sets.



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RE: Weatherstrip for T-Top


Yup, I can see it would be easy to mess up my new tops. But I'm in no hurry. Besides , it'll take some time to finish fine-tuning the fit of the new hinge pieces. Speaking of hinges, it looks like the motor covers were originally hinged. Do I need to fabricate replacement hinges, or are they available somewhere?
Thanks again,
Demo

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Can Do!

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Date:
RE: Weatherstrip for T-Top


Hi There Demo !

Good to see ya here.  I'll give you some more advise about those T Tops, you can ruin one in a Heartbeat drilling the holes for the screws it you don't use the right bit combination,  if you haven't done that before you better wait to do that, I'm in a hurry now but I'll fill ya in on that later.

I use the stick-on storm window weatherstrip from HomeDepot under mt tops, it works well and you can cut it for an exact fit to look good, the only thing I do different is, after it's all put on and looking good, I spray some silicone lubricate on a rag and rub the top surface of the seal to keep it from sticking to the top in the hot sunlight,  been working on my boat just fine.

I went to the boat shop yesterday to see if Cody has run the supercharged boat he's building and he has, it has some issue with fuel delivery and won't stay runnning at wot but he said  it sounds like a blower motor alright but it don't have the attitude yet.  I'll get some pic's when I go back over there.


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Date:
Weatherstrip for T-Top


Hey guys:
I'm installing some new T-tops I got from Tommy-in Tampa (who I found on Classic Glastrons)... But I'm  curious about what I should use to replace the old dried weatherstrip. Something from the auto parts store? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Also, I need to drill holes through the new tops, and find screws to attach to the aluminum hinge parts. Has anyone got a close-up picture of what it is supposed to look like?
One more thing... I think Red has talked me out of launching half-****ed into installing a Weiand 142 blower on my '80 Scimitar, at least until after summer has ended, but has anybody had a positive experience with this concept?
Have a great time out there on the 4th! 
Demo

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